After a demonstration by some of the last remaining Italian cowboys (butteri) at a working cattle ranch, and al fresco lunch, we take the hour-long ferry ride to the island of Elba.
Elba
We have an entire day and a half for a "vacation within our vacation" in order to give Rodolfo, our driver, a mandated day off. It is also Halloween and All Saints holiday weekend, and even in November it is warm enough to swim in the sea.
We explore the old port of Portoferrario, and on our own, arrange a tour of the town which includes the villa where Napoleon was in exile overlooking the bay.
Did you know...?
When Napoleon was exiled on Elba, he had no money. He was only able to convert a former barracks into a villa with the generosity of his two sisters, who married into European royalty.
Volterra
After leaving Elba, we drove through the rolling hills to the remote and quiet hill town of Volterra. We met our tour guide and discovered the wonders of this tiny cobblestoned village.
The west entry gate is original Etruscan...during World War ll, when the Germans threatened to blow it up, during the night the townspeople dug up the big rocks in the streets and piled them in front of the gate...which is why it is intact today.
This small town can be walked in half an hour, but its riches are priceless. There are ruins of an Etruscan/Roman bath and amphitheater, as well as a wonderful Etruscan museum, which has an extraordinary collection of Etruscan funerary urns; the remains of the deceased were entombed in stone chests, which were carved with his likeness and the story of his journey to the next world.
There is also much alabaster in the town; we were treated to a demonstration of carving of this soft stone, which lends itself easily to become vases, statues, or pendants.
Lucca
Our last stop on the tour was the lovely old walled city of Lucca. With fortified walls that are 90 feet thick, today the top of the walls is paved and grassed for pedestrians and cyclists.
There is a Roman amphitheater in the center of the town, which is now paved and surrounded by shops and restaurants. We enjoy wandering around and are treated to a tour of Puccini's home. Although there is not much to see in the way of antiquities, it is still a pleasant day.
Alfio tells us he has a surprise for us the last night.....wonder what it might be?
Below is our surprise...in a tiny chapel down the street from our hotel, Alfio provided our very own private Puccini concert, sung by Silvana...complete with champagne!
PRO TIP: Be prepared: When a thunderstorn totally flooded our shoes coming home from dinner, we had another pair of sneakers to wear home the next day.
(The hotel hairdryer did not dry much, and the hotel did not have a clothes dryer!) I also bring a vinyl handbag...so all my papers and things were OK.
Everyday
Life...
Even when you're on vacation, the rest of the world isn't. Schools are open, mailmen are delivering, waiters are serving and folks are doing laundry....
PRO TIP: Be flexible: Life happens, even when you're on vacation! Be ready to go with the flow....our return flight from Paris to the states was delayed 24 hours at the last minute...we had to stay overnight...WITHOUT OUR CARRY-ONS! But after all, this was Paris.....ah, but that's another story....